CHOOSING YOUR SUIT

Men today have a wide range of options for suits.  Once you understand your colouring, body shape, and proportions, buying the right suit for you will be easier. What you find in shops and department stores will be variations of one or more of the 4 basic styles shown here.

BRITISH SUIT This follows the natural line of the body.  The waist is defined and nipped-in, and accentuated by double vents at the back.  Double-ventsare flattering on larger-bottomed men.  The pockets are flapped and slightly angled.

The single breasted version has simple noticed lapels and the double-breasted has 4 to 6 buttons.  In the USA this style may be called the Updated American cut, which sometimes has a centre vent.

EUROPEAN CUT SUIT, both single and double-breasted are ventless. All button quite low creating the illusion of the top half being longer than the bottom half. Men under 6 foot (1.8 cm) tall should avoid this style of suit.

The jacket ends about 3 inches 97.5 cm) below the curve of the buttocks.  The lapels of the suit are wider than other cuts, so they require a bold tie in both width and pattern. The style emphasises the shoulders and hips without taking much notice of the waist.

MODIFIED EUROPEAN CUT is more fitted than the European but not as fitted as the British.  This suit is good for a man who wants a bit of flair.  The armholes are high so they neatly hug across the chest.  The 6 button double-breasted version usually buttons in the middle with one button left undon to emphasise the waist.  The style flatters men of short to average stature.

The single breasted version sometimes has a centre vent with simple notched lapels. The pockets are slashed, and are flattering to men with ample hips. The trousers have minimal volume.  This suit looks good on men who aspire to an elegant look.

AMERICAN SACK cut.  This suit has a natural shoulder and the look is square and boxy and is much shorter in length than European styles. The modest width lapels are notched but "rolled" to give a softer less defined edge than other cuts. The pockets have flaps and the rear always has a centre vent. Some variations include from 1 to 3 buttons.

The ample shape of this suit means that men with square or full bodies can enjoy its comfort.  If waistlines are fuller than chest or shoulders, then this style is very easy to wear. It is not a really smart or sharp look in a suit though, although many like it.

COLLAR STYLE AND FIT

Collar selection is important for men who dont have standard necks and faces. For men with long skinny necks, collars that have narrow spreads or are very long and pointed only emphasise the very features they wish to minimise. They are better in wide collars that create some width where needed. (collar top left) Men with very full faces and short necks (especially thick ones) are better in narrow collars (collar middle left of picture) Button-down collars (bottom left of picture) are much easier on a full neck.  Their softer fabric (Oxford cloth) is more forgiving on rolls of extra flesh. Collar at top right is a traditional collar and below it is the tab collar.

If neck size is problem, consider investing in custom made shirts.  Save money on other things and sped a bit more to create the most flattering line near the face. In choosing your shirts emphasis should be on a good fit and smart finish. If a collar is uncomfortable with skin sagging over the top, it is too tight.  If there is too much room when shirt is buttoned-up, you look ill.  There should be just enough room to fit one finger inside the collar or movement of about 1/4 inch. Make sure your tie balances with your shirt collar.  For a standard business collar the preferred knot is the half-Windsor.

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